Sarco Type M Glazing Putty (Gallon)

Sticks like glue very nice to worksFound a nice trick to keep it soft in the pail cover with saran wrap, then closed the lid

Had to glaze (396) 5x7' windows, two gallons of this Saco Type M Glazing putty and it made the job a breeze and enjoyable. Applies quickly and easily and dries evenly and quickly.No Complaints.Shipping was fast and direct

My husband is restoring the original windows on our hundred year old house (truly a labor of love), and this glazing was recommended by a local expert on restoring antique windows. Compared to DAP, this dries much faster and adheres to the wood far better. The only complaint is that it dries out in the container. Next time we'll try other reviewers' suggestions for making it last: flatten the surface, spread a thin layer of boiled linseed oil over the product before closing with the lid.

If you are tired of using the big box store glazing that is difficult to work with, try this. It tools well and doesn't tend to tear when worked. It is not the cheapest by far, but it works well. I will have to see how it holds up over time. The big box stuff does't seem to. Would have given it a 5 except for the price of shipping.

If you like to wear the fanciest suits along with pricey accessories such as high end sunglasses, pocket squares, or watches, then the kind of glazing you put on your double hung sash, six panel historic windows should definitely be just as elegant. Don’t be afraid to show the world your great sense of fashion with some of the biggest and best brands in the market and, when glazing comes to mind, nothing is more refined and sophisticated than Sarco Type M Glazing putty. Is there any mystery to the Type M designation? I don't know, but everything about this putty glaze suggests that maybe, just maybe, "M" is a code letter and name for the head of the British Secret Intelligence Service, or MI6. What I do know is that if James Bond ever needed to rely on a glazing putty for a dangerous mission in an exotic location, or for his own home, Mr. Bond would insist on Sarco Type M glazing putty. It is just that good and noteworthy a glazing putty. As I apply the rubber mallet to close the top of the Sarco Type M Glazing putty gallon size container, I admire the now sealed muntins and the windows' natural glazed look. I smile with the knowing self-satisfaction of a glazing job well done and, thanks to the Type M linseed oil foundation, recollect the surface putty cuts smoothly made with surgeon's finesse against the muntin and glass. As I walk away from the job site, the sun shines brighter now, birds serenade my every step, and the lilt of Guccio Gucci’s motto becomes the chorus "The quality of Sarco Type M glazing putty will be remembered long after the price is forgotten."

This glazing compound, which contains linseed oil, lasts well, & outlasts the more modern compounds available - at least in my experience. One needs to wait a week or two before painting it, so that it has skinned over. I use oil base primer, but one can use water base, once the glaze has skinned over. It doesn't become brittle & dry the way other glazes do. Properly applied & painted, it can last (even in windows that get lots of weather) for decades. It is reasonably easy to work.

There is no substitute for Sarco Type M. I'm rebuilding all my old windows (cedar, from 1911). I take them out, strip them, break them apart and re-glue them, starting with some hardening epoxy if warranted. I put them back together with glue (no nails), and sometimes I dowel them to replace broken tenons. Then I paint them WELL with boiled linseed oil (BLO) cut 50/50 withthinner. Wipe off the excess, and let it set overnight. Next day, I take the "labeled" panes (I reuse the old glass, and label each pane as to up/down, int/ext, and top or bottom sash) and scrub them with Bon Ami and water and a wee bit of simple dish soap. Wipe them very clean and dry (you would be amazed at how much pollution is bound to the glass!), and get ready! Push a bead of putty into the rabbet all the way around. Carefully set the glass in, and lay a piece of towel on it, and plywood on that. Then use a vibrating sander (without paper) on the plywood, all around the edges over and over, to settle the glass into the putty. Then push in new glazier stops. I usually do one in the middle top and bottom, then work out every 8" or so to about 3" or 4" from the corner. Then repeat on the sides. Lastly, lay out the top layer, cut it off, smooth it, and carefully pick it up and let it set up flat.NOTE: Some things to think about: Use thin (wooden match?) pieces of wood to keep the glass away from the bottom rabbet. Meaning, put in the glazier points, then slide these matchsticks into the gap at the bottom. Then when you stand the window vertical, gravity won't pull the glass down and distort your putty.Using and storing: When you open your bucket, you will find some BLO on top. Use your glazier knife to stir it in. (Buy a decent knife... don't use a thin putty knife.) Later, before you snap the lid back on, pat the putty smooth with the back of your fingers. Tamp it down nice. Get that oil to rise. If none does, splash just a bit on it, and wipe it around with your fingers. Seal the lid, and put it in a cool, dark place. When you use it, be sure to KNEAD it to make it pliable. Yes, it will make your hands goopy. That's OK! Just scrape it off with your glazier knife. Personally, I keep mine just shy of razor sharp... it makes a much cleaner bead that way.Good luck!

If you are restoring old windows, this is a must have item. Don't waste your time with anything like DAP 33 that falls out after only a few years. The linseed oil Sarco Type M is the right stuff and will hold up great. Easy to work with, skins over in as little as 4 days. I've been using this stuff for years, I can't recommend it enough.