Werner55-1 Attic Ladder Replacement Hinges

It actually was quite easy to install, much to my surprise. The part is stronger than the original. Price seemed high, but it fit, worked well, and I got the job done much quicker than expected.

The new hinges are heavier gauge steel than the originals, and they can be installed by one person, follow the helpful instructions from the reviewer snc. Thank you for the tip about the spring, worked like a charm!

I bought this to repair an existing set of stairs. The metal on this is thicker and better shaped than the original so I imagine it will be more sturdy. It's a bit overpriced for what it is, and there are much cheaper third party items available but I was willing to pay the price rather than take a chance on off-brand item where safety matters. The instructions could be better. It is hard and slow to drill out the old rivet as per the instructions, and chiseling was also not effective, but a sawzall-type reciprocating saw gets the job done much faster if you have one on hand. Or you can use a hacksaw.

The Right hinge arm on my Werner Attic Master pull-down ladder, Model WH2508, Broke when I pulled down the ladder. The rivet popped at the pivot point, which turned out to be a blessing in disguise. Even though my broken hinge arm did not look exactly like the one in the photo, the ad said it would fit, so I bought it. I'm glad I did. This model is MUCH thicker & sturdier than the original. Also, it was a breeze to install as long as you DON'T ATTACH THE BOLT TO THE STAIRS ON THE LADDER UNTIL AFTER YOU FIRST ATTACH THE SPRING TO THE HINGE. If you do it in this order, you use the natural leverage of the hinge and the spring to pull it down to the hole on the stairs. Then, you just line up the hinge to the hole, pop the bolt through the outside of the ladder, and tighten the washer and nut from the opposite side. You can do it all by yourself, without having to climb into the attic at all. Here is the exact order I used:1. PUT ON SAFETY GLASSES AND A GOOD SET OF GLOVES TO PROTECT YOUR HANDS.2. Remove the old hinge per the instructions. If your hinge is still attached at the pivot point, you will have to either drill it out, per the directions, or remove it using a hacksaw.3. Drill a pilot hole through the center of the pivot point using a 13/64 drill bit, as directed.4. Attach the new hinge to the pivot point by placing one of the provided washers on the longest lag bolt/screw provided. Then, insert the new bolt/screw through the hole closest to the curve on the new hinge and then all the way into the center hole of the pivot point. The new hinge should still move freely thanks to the washer. (I used a 1/2 inch socket to tighten it which worked perfectly.)5. Extend the side of the new hinge that attaches to the spring all the way out towards the spring. Then, lift the opposite side of the hinge up which will bring the spring side of the hinge as close to the spring as possible.6. Attach the spring to the tip of the new hinge.7. Rotate the opposite side of the new hinge downward towards the hole where it attaches to the pull-down ladder. BE CAREFUL SINCE THE HINGE WILL NOW BE UNDER PRESSURE FROM THE SPRING!8. Attach the new hinge to the ladder by lining up the hinge to the hole, popping the new bolt provided through the outside of the ladder, and then tighten the washer and nut from the opposite side using that same size socket wrench.That's it. You're done.

Replacement part for my Werner/Kentucky Ladder Co attic ladder from the '90s. Better than original, since it fixes a design flaw. Others commented that the rivet bent or broke, but on mine it was the arm closest to the spring that bent. I'm not very handy, but there were good instructions and it was a straightforward repair that I was able to do without asking for help from my handy friends. And the price was better than buying it directly from Werner. Not to mention the free prime shipping.

These are thicker metal than my originals. That is good. The geometry is changed slightly from my originals. The bend on the main piece is about 4 inches from the pivot point. The original was at the pivot point. This would ordinally not create a problem, but I had insulated my door and I had to cut away some of my insulation and weatherstripping for the door to close completely. The spring was a pain to install, and I believe it is stretched more than the original. Anyway, the door is working fine with the new parts.

All I got was 1 side bar instead of 2 side bars (1 set). No bolts, nuts, washers, etc. and instructions.

Easy Install, works better than original