OVERTURE 6KG Bundle PETG 3D Printer Filament 1.75mm, Neatly Wound Durable PETG 6 Pack 1kg(2.2lbs), Strong Toughness Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.02mm, Fit Most FDM Printers (6 Color (6-Pack))

Good PETG for the price. It is not too picky on temperature, it prints fine anywhere from 245-255 on my Ender 3 V2. It doesn't bridge very well but that is to be expected for PETG, if you want to bridge I recommend printing at 245 and turning on bridging settings in Cura which makes bridges possible although pretty ugly. Supports work better than bridging, but can be hard to remove because PETG sticks to itself so well.Here are my settings for Ender 3 v2:micro swiss all-metal hotend / original extruder / original bowden tubebltouch leveling probe + yellow springsnozzle 0.4mm 250cbed plain glass + gluestick, 85cfirst layer speed 10speed after first layer 30first layer height: 0.28layer height after first layer: 0.2fan: none unless you are trying to bridge, if so use bridge detection to turn fan 100% only for the bridgeretraction 3mm @ 30I find that the biggest struggle with PETG is just getting the first layer to stick and look good. Once you get past the first layer it is usually smooth sailing. If you have problems with the first layer, first of all dry your filament even if it is brand new. It is an easy way to eliminate frustrations. Also go ahead and calibrate your extruder steps and measure your filament diameter and put that into your slicer, again these are easy steps that ensure you will not be fighting under/over extrusion while you are trying to get everything else figured out. Next use glue stick on plain glass and let the glue stick dry. You want the glass to look dull, not shiny, but it also shouldn't feel sticky to the touch. This combo works great for me, it adheres well but not TOO well and the prints pop themselves off when they cool. Lots of people like hairspray too but gluestick works fine for me and is less messy. Finally the #1 most important thing is to adjust your z offset and first layer height. You cannot mush the filament onto the bed like PLA, it needs to fall out of the nozzle and gently lay down onto the bed. Before doing anything with your z-offset I recommend turning your first layer height up to .28 or .3. The reason is that this sets your nozzle higher AND automatically adjusts the flow rate to match. If you just start bumping your z-offset higher and higher, you will be under-extruding by a lot which can cause its own problems. Once you set your first-layer height to .28, then start printing a test print and live-adjust your Z until the lines lay down and stick to the bed, and are neither gooping up onto the nozzle, nor being hit by the nozzle and pulled off the bed. This is tricky because the sweet spot here is TINY. Like within one or 2 micro-adjustments on the z, either side of that you will have issues. But once you hit the sweet spot on the Z you are golden. Then print some bed leveling test prints and adjust your first layer extrusion multiplier or line width if needed so your lines are touching. I recommend always using the bed level print that is CIRCLES when starting off, not squares. The sharp corners on the squares are super unforgiving and will pop off instantly if your settings aren't right. It is easier to use a bed leveling print with circles to dial your settings in without frustrating yourself and needing to restart the print a hundred times.When printing things over 2" tall I recommend using a wide brim because originally I was using skirt and I have had taller prints pop off the bed right as they are nearly finished, I think the reason is due to the lower part of the print cooling off. A brim is cheap insurance against your whole print being ruined at the last moment, and is easy to remove and leaves little trace that it was ever there.

Grass Green is pretty close to Ryobi's green. I printed PETG and found 250C, the max, was best. I also noticed it printed more shiny at higher temps. Duller at lower. 70C bed was fine and 80C no different on Sovol SV07 PEI bed. Fast led to problems. Sweet spot was around 38mm/sec for walls. If I dialed it up to 50mm/sec then stringing started.On a roll sitting for about 3-4 weeks it did pick up moisture which can cause your nozzle to accumulate some excess. Keep an eye out for it. If you come back to a final print with little extra blobs, it's probably knocked off the nozzle as it moved around.I used Cura default for wall thickness but I did drop my layers to 1.6mm for better arches. I didn't use bed adhesion (brim, raft, etc), bridges or supports but I also kept all my angles gradual. Look at the pic and you'll see they are basically circles.I used 20% infill as well as 30%. No real difference. When setting the power drills on the bracket arms, they only deflect maybe 1-2mm. Barely noticeable. Yes, by hand you can make it deflect 5-6mm but this is just to organize my tools, not create a climbing wall that will support lots of weight.I printed all of what you see with 1 spool. I have a 2nd loaded to do a ton of more tool wall brackets, but wanted to get this review up. If your print has started, and you have moisture issues, try bumping the temp up and keep an eye on it. You may get through it bumping 5 degrees at a time to watch for change. In my case, it was in the infill area, and so it's "entombed" inside.When I ramped up to 60mm/sec and got to higher layers, like around 300 of 500 (again, 1.6mm height layers) it did start to have issues rising a bit, and catching upon hot end return. I reduced the speed back to 32, and dropped the fan from 20% to 10% and the clipping stopped for a perfect finish. I do also use glue pen for adhesion to the bed, but even on a clean bed (no glue pen) I still had great adhesion.Finish is great. No stringing if I keep speeds down. Strong as you'd expect from PETG. I am super happy. I did read reviews that were negative but didn't have problems. The storage bag is resealable which is really nice. Spool did not detach on either spools. My filament was unopened on both rolls, ordered about 4 weeks apart.I will definitely order this product again as I get more of my power tools wall mounted, and when I get a chance I will upload the STL files to Thingiverse. I created these prints on TinkerCad. website, exported STL into Cura and then sliced GCode sent to Sovol SV07Plus.

High quality filament at a fair price. I really enjoy Overture filament, it prints very well on my 3d printer. It is PETG though, so it needs to be dried (That's to be expected.) Dry it at 50c for 24 hours then store it in a dessicant dry box. The finished prints have a nice finish on them, and I don't have any issues with filament tangles. As far as consistency, I don't buy enough to comment on that, but it performs very well!